13 Dec

Performing a professional facial or skincare treatment is a bit like painting a work of art. You must start with a clean canvas. Ensuring the skin is thoroughly clean will make the rest of the treatment more effective. Learn how with these simple steps.

1. Start with pre-cleanse

Hydrophilic (water soluble) oil based cleansers have been around for decades and have grown in popularity in recent years. They are worked into the skin before any water has been applied to dissolve makeup, SPF or any products designed to cling to the skin. Water is then added to emulsify turning the product milky before it's wiped from the skin. These products are suitable for all skin types, even oily skin. If you don't have a product like this in your back bar you may simply cleanse the skin twice with skin appropriate cleanser for a deep, thorough cleanse.

2. *Choose the correct cleanser

Cleansers are formulated for specific skin types and conditions. While there are numerous variations on the market they generally fall into these categories. 

Clay based for absorbing excess sebum, oily skin.

Foaming gel; depending on the surfactant used they may be suitable for oily, combo, dry or sensitive.

Cream (oil) based are more nourishing and gentle for dry or sensitive skin.

3. *Correct amount

Knowing how much product to use will also effect the efficacy of your cleanse. Use too little and it won't be effective. Use too much and you'll spend too long removing it, potentially irritating the skin and not be cost effective to your esthetics practice.  

4. *Adding water

Foaming cleansers need water to foam and this should be added to the product before applying it to the skin, not after.

Adding water to a clay or creamy cleanser will dilute the product making it less effective. Apply to skin, then dip hands in water for added slip. 

5. Don't skimp on time

If "wash off" products are to work we must use them long enough to be effective during your professional facial protocol. Spend anywhere between 2-5 minutes per cleanse.

6. How to manually cleanse

Bear in mind the structure of the skin. Several smooth effleurage moves will spread a thin layer of product over the area. Followed by circular motions with finger and/or thumb pads allowing you to get into all the crevices and contours of the face, neck and décolleté. This will help lift cellular debris and grime that can lodge in the pores and under the hairs. Use clockwise and counter-clock wise rotations. Remember, this isn't a massage, lighter more superficial movements will prevent pre-sensitizing the skin at this early stage.

7. Be methodical

Start at the décolleté and finish at the forehead and work everywhere in between ensures you will cover the entire area.

If cheeks feel warm or look rosy, ease up pressure.

If you feel more congestion at the jawline or the nose, spend longer in this area.

When working the sides of the nose, work one side then the other. Closing off the air supply of both nostrils is not comfortable for your client.

Take your movements all the way to the perimeter of the face.

*Refer to your manufacturers training manual for correct usage of your products.

If you found these tips and reminders useful please leave a comment below and share with fellow esties.

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